The service in the rest of the hotel isn’t quite as dedicated as the Grain Store, with staff overstretched in the restaurant, which is riotously popular with locals who come to devour oysters with champagne. Food is traditional with a trendy take and dependably delicious. I very much enjoyed my cheese souffle with truffle, and Orkney scallops slathered with yuzu butter.

After a packed day, I was relieved to retire to my bedroom, which of course had the obligatory on-trend accoutrements – Roberts radio, mirrored armoire, Aromatherapy Associates toiletries in the bathroom. It was also exceedingly cosy, with wood-beamed ceilings and a comfy bed.

The next morning after check-out I took a tour around Tetbury’s church, where a kind local lady accosted me and asked whether I was part of a coach tour, as there were “an awful lot of people walking around the graveyard today”. I did feel a bit bad. Then I went to the deli round the corner and loaded up on venison pie and pumpkin salad.

Double rooms from £334, including breakfast.

Tetbury, Gloucestershire, GL8 8YJ (01666 890391; calcot.co)

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